Early Textiles Study Group

Part 1 of Identifying and Describing the Structures of Textiles​

​Upcoming Courses

Part 1: 31 March – 11 April, 2025, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
Part 1: 7- 18 July, 2025, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire

More details about location and cost.

Course Outline

Types of looms and how these may affect fabric structure will be discussed and some simple weaving undertaken to give a proper understanding of the process. Our aim in particular will be to increase the confidence of participants in their analytical skills, needed especially when faced with unfamiliar or poorly-preserved surviving textiles.

The specific learning outcomes for Part 1 are:

  • identify basic weave structures and their variants
  • record structures in a standard format
  • use internationally-agreed terminology
  • explain the relationship between looms and fabric structure  

The following topics will be covered in sessions of varying length:

  • The three basic weaves: tabby, twill, satin; distinguishing warp from weft. 
  • Recording weaves as diagrams and drafts: the various conventions and their advantages. Methods of magnification, with and without additional light. 
  • Variations on tabby (extended tabby). 
  • Variations on plain twill and plain satin.
  • Completing standard fiches/forms.
  • Weaving before heddles a): netting, linking and looping; sprang.
  • Weaving before heddles b): warp and weft twining.
  • Simple braiding; tablet-weaving.
  • A brief look at different methods of warping and creating the sheds.
  • Colour effects: contrasting bands and stripes, combinations of these, ikat.
  • Tapestry.
  • Simple methods of photographing textiles and weaves.
  • Patterns using shafts: twill variations, block damask, warp floats/weft floats.
  • Patterns made with supplementary weft but no figure harness. 
  • Weft pile techniques; looped and knotted, uncut and cut.
  • Patterns made with supplementary warp but no figure harness.
  • Plain velvet. Plain gauze.
  • A brief look at the range of scientific tests that can be applied to early textiles.
  • Selvedges, starting borders and finishing borders. Weaving to shape.   

Contact

For further details please contact both Part 1 tutors:
Hero Granger-Taylor, hero@granger-taylor.com
Ruth Gilbert, plainweave879@btinternet.com